Redgarden Wall; "Rewritten", 5.8



Hangin' out at the end of P2, looking West.
Looking down at Eldorado valley, you see the main access road and part of the Fowler trail.



Somewhere on P3 this is, I'm not sure what.



But the pointy thing looked cool so I took a picture of it.


Vertical. Vertigo.


And here is what "Rewritten" is famous for - the horizontal traverse followed by the vertical crack, the crux of the climb and rated 5.7.


It is not as hard as it looks. The rock face is not totally strait-up vertical, it is about 75-80 degrees I estimate. And there is good friction on the rock for your feet during the traverse.



Looking up the "P4" crack. Almost, but not really quite vertical.
Don't forget to look down when you're on the traverse.

View from just B4 getting on


It isn't a finger crack - it's big enuf to put your hand in. The stated technique is to just use fingers for balance and stability; there is good enuf friction on the rock to hold your feet and you can literally walk across in a careful balancing act. This was my 9th day of climbing, I only began this year so I do not have any world-class technique. I just approached the problem with brute gorilla muscle (my classic way of dealing with most things in life), and simply hung by my fingertips and straddled across. And even that was not hard.



Closeup of the traverse crack.
The traverse meets the vertical crack. Grab the little arete at the end with your left hand, swing around, get your hands and feet in the crack and start climbing. It gets easier as you go up.

Scary. Real scary.